On Driving in Ireland

Driving in Ireland is great.  Seriously: I fucking love it.  Roads are generally high quality, very scenic, and super fun to drive.  Further, they do NOT hold your hand in Ireland--speed limits are usually above what most normal suspensions can handle, so be prepared to stay on your toes and allow drivers to pass you.

Some notes on our experiences follow:

• The traffic police ("Garda") are fairly laid-back and extremely minimal--we drove all over Ireland and saw maybe 3 police cars.  That said...

• ...Traffic speeds are enforced.  However, they're done so using automatic cameras.  Where this matters: those scenic little towns strung out along the 80km/h (50 mph) R or L roads.  Yeah, they really want you to slow down there.

• The large freeways (M roads) generally become toll roads around major cities.  Watch out, and don't get caught without change handy in pounds or euros.

• If you're renting, GET THE CDW.  Your car is going to get scratches from vegetation and scuffed to hell from curbs, hedgerows, etc.  The roads are extremely narrow and rough in many places.  You'll want CDW for the piece of mind, and chances are it will save you in the end.

• Also if you're renting, just bring your own GPS and load it up with European maps.  Chances are the $50 map upgrade will be far less than the 15 euro/day GPS rental fee most car rental agencies charge.  And yes, in Ireland, you want GPS.  See my point on signs later.

• Stay in the leftmost lane where possible.  Irish (and English) drivers are a lot stricter about slower cars moving out of the fast lanes.  Unless you're passing, stay left.

• Diesel is (significantly) cheaper than unleaded in the south (Republic).  This is reversed in the north.  Reserve your car accordingly.  Both are available at every fuel station.  Do not put unleaded in a diesel car, and vice versa--that's minimum couple hundred euro clean out fee, and thousands if you actually turn your engine on.  This is typically not covered by normal CDW for rentals.

• There are no books on how to drive in Ireland (whereas there are for England).  However, everything you need to know is in their handy little downloadable manual.  Get yours here: http://www.rsa.ie/RSA/Licensed-Drivers/Driving-in-Ireland/.  Print out the pertinent pages and read it on the airplane.  You should be set after that.  Do this even if you've driven in England, as the signs (and road pavings) are slightly different.

• Do not be afraid of stopping and asking for directions.  Irish road signs can be very confusing and sparse out in the boonies.  Not all sights are marked on GPS maps.  Folks are generally helpful--just ask, and save the time you'd spend wandering lost!